![]() The next step is sawing the grooves in the walls of the miter box. So that the drill does not run away at the beginning of drilling, small indentations are made at the designated points with a core, then holes with a diameter of 4 mm are drilled and if self-tapping screws with a countersunk head, then it is better to make a countersink, although this is not necessary. Draw a line in the middle of this strip and mark points for drilling holes for self-tapping screws on it at an equidistant distance from each other. Since my base is made of chipboard 18 mm thick, then I need to draw out a strip 18 mm wide. Next, you need to draw a section of each wall, which will be adjacent to the base of the miter box. It should be noted that the wider the base board is, the higher the cutting accuracy will be. Here you need to try to draw the lines accurately, since the accuracy of sawing the material will ultimately depend on this. Marking is performed using a ruler or caliper. From them, at a distance of half the width of the base, I have 5 cm, two more parallel lines are applied. ![]() ![]() On both side walls, in the middle, as well as on the base, first apply along one perpendicular line. But the main one on the base is the perpendicular line, relative to which the side walls of the miter box will be oriented during installation. The result is lines that are at an angle of 45 and 90˚ relative to the longitudinal side of the board. Risks are drawn from the ends of this line at a distance of half the width of the board along its length, which are connected with a marker by line segments. A perpendicular line can be drawn using a special square or by taking any sheet of paper folded twice. In the middle of the board of the base of the miter box, a straight line is applied at right angles to the side walls. Making a miter box begins with cutting out the parts and marking them. The width of the miter box should not exceed half the length of the hacksaw blade, otherwise it will be inconvenient to saw. But the wider the board, the more accurate the cut and the ability to cut wider slats will be. The dimensions of the parts are not critical. To make a homemade miter box, you need only a couple of metal plates, preferably aluminum plates 1.5-2 mm thick and a board for the base of the miter box about 10 cm wide made of wood, chipboard or plywood. over, a high-precision miter box can be made with your own hands in a couple of hours from improvised material. But they are very expensive, and it makes no sense to purchase such a device for a one-time repair in an apartment. There are high-precision miter boxes on sale, which even provide the ability to change the angle in any range, and there are clamps for fixing the material being cut. Industrial-made plastic miter boxes have a significant drawback, due to the greater width of the guide slots and their rapid wear by the saw teeth, the angle accuracy is low and at the junction of the skirting boards or platbands, slots up to one millimeter wide often remain. The miter box will not allow the saw blade to move to the side and the end of the rail will turn out to be required. It is enough to apply one point on the rail, which needs to be adjusted to the size, insert the rail into the miter box so that the mark is on the line of the guides, and cut the rail with a hand-held hacksaw inserted into the slots. In the photo, a miter box made of industrial plastic, with which a hand saw can be used with sufficient accuracy to cut slats, bars, corners made of wood, chipboard, MDF, drywall, plastic and other soft materials at an angle of 45 ° and 90 °. To increase productivity and quality of sawing, a simple device was invented called a miter box.
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